Archive for June, 2006

Soils, Pots, and Potting

You will make bigger profits from your greenhouse crops if you plant them in the right soil mixture, in the proper kind of pot or other container, and shift or transplant them at timely intervals.

The first-time greenhouse grower often faces the problem of finding organic material, an essential component of a light and rich potting soil. The usual recommendation is ? garden soil, ? organic matter (humus), and 1/3 builder’s sand. A compost pile can supply the organic matter or you can buy rotted manure to mix in the soil. Failing this, you can purchase bales of peatmoss or bushels of leafmold. Processed manure is also suitable.

Commercial growers obtain organic material in a way that may be adaptable for you. They cut sod and stack it in alternate layers, with manure and some commercial fertilizer spread between the layers. A man in my vicinity has some rather deep cold frames no longer used for plants. In these, he places a load of builder’s sand, another of loam, and a third of brown peat. These materials are forked over until well mixed and allowed to age a year before use. You might try making up a similar mixture in a large wooden box or bin, or in a section of your cold frame. I think it is an excellent basic mixture, but I add special elements for various plants.

Any time is a good time to start a compost pile; the important thing is to have one. It will assure a reliable source of humus for little labor and less expense. Into your compost pile can go all kinds of vegetable matter: grass clippings, tree leaves, weeds, vegetable peelings, arid so on. If the pile is kept moistened and sprinkled with fertilizer or a special bacteria-activator as Activo, it soon becomes fine enough organic material for your potting soil.

Some gardeners dig a pit for compost; others prefer to have compost bins above ground. One manufacturer sells an aluminum bin, 52 by 28 inches, that might suit your needs, especially if you are a city gardener.

When you consider that the small amount of earth packed into a pot must sustain a plant for weeks, months, or longer, you will see the importance of a good soil containing loam, organic matter, and sand. However, additions of sponge rock for greater porosity, charcoal as a sweetener, aluminum sulphate to acidify, or old mortar rubble (for cacti) can be beneficial for special crops.

The symbol pH is used to indicate the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a soil; pH 7.0 is neutral. Most potted plants grow well in a slightly acid soil with a pH of about 6.0 to 6.5. There are exceptions. Azaleas, citrus trees, gardenias, and hibiscus, do best in a definitely acid soil. You can purchase a soil-testing kit for your own testing, or have someone at your university or your county agent make tests to determine whether your soil is acid or alkaline, and what (if anything) it needs.

Do not use the same soil for more than 1 year. A sizable amount will go out every year with the potted plants, flats of seedlings, etc., you sell. But crops such as bulbs can be lifted and dried off, and you still have the soil. In any case, at the end of a year, remove any leftover used soil and pile it outside to aerate and revitalize for some months. Then it can be incorporated again into potting mixtures.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees

Pond landscaping is a fun hobby that can be enjoyed by all ages. Ponds can be a beautiful focal point for any backyard. Whether you have a small backyard to a large one, a pond will be a fun landscaping addition. Pond landscaping is an easy project for anyone to take on. Adding fish and plants to the pond will add a dramatic and soothing focal point to any yard.

Planning your pond

You may decide to buy a pond kit that contains all the supplies you will need, or you can make the decision to create and build you own. There are some very important considerations to think about before you start the digging process. The most important thing is to find the right location.

Choose a site with at least four to six hours of sunlight each day. Most of the water plants that you add to your water landscape will require full sun. You will also want to keep the pond away from trees to eliminate leaves and debris. You will want to pick a spot that will not interfere with electrical sources.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees

Final Touches

You may want to add a burst of color for a warm, inviting feeling with flowers and shrubs around your new patio landscape. There are many different plants and flowers that can be used to line your patio with. You can do a clean line of greenery around the border of the patio, or go with a fun patch of wild flowers surrounding your creation.

Potted Plants

Remember if you do not want to plant flowers around your new patio, you can use potted plants to decorate your new family space. Potted plants are easy to take care of and add fun and beauty along with flexibility. Choose simple plants in fun, unique pots. Whatever you decide on, make it a place your whole family will can enjoy and treasure.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees

The first step to your new patio

The first thing that you want to do when getting started on your new patio, is building forms to add height to the perimeter of the patio. The additional height to your patio will help give the support your foundation needs. Just make sure that you are even with a doorway or entrance to your home. Make sure that your edges are smooth and that there are no nails sticking out from the sides of your patio.

Once you have the forms for your patio done, you are ready to add some movement to your patio. If you are looking to achieve a curved look, you will need to use some bender board. This is made from plastic and moves easily. Make sure that you add stakes in at about every 12 to 18 inches around the board to help keep its shape. This will add fun and creativity to your design.

Placing your Materials for the Floor

Now it is time add your choice of flooring materials. By this time you would have decided on stone, cement, rock or even a decorative tile. Follow the direction for the materials and put them carefully in their place. You want to take your time and make sure that your patio looks like a professional finished it. You can be as creative as you want with the design. Just make sure that they are secure.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees

Every 10 days, I give my greenhouse a regular allover spraying with an electric Devilbus sprayer. I also have a lightweight, inexpensive plastic sprayer. This holds about a quart of liquid, and can be operated with one hand. I keep it filled with malathion solution for quick dealing with aphids, caterpillars, and thrips. The tank-type sprayer, used in outdoor gardening, is also effective in the greenhouse. This is a cylinder with a hand-pressure pump. It has a strap to slip over your shoulder. It holds about 2 gallons.

Insects attack plants in different ways. Thrips scrape away the green tissue from petals, leaving tiny scars. Malathion applied at 5- to 7-day intervals will kill thrips-adults and offspring. Spider mites (red spider) cause yellow-and-brown areas on foliage. A spray of cold water is effective if your plants can stand it (African violets cannot). Otherwise, use Aramite spray one week, malathion the next. Cyclamen mites twist and gnarl the center leaves of many plants. Remove infested plants from the greenhouse; if you must save them, cut out the affected areas, treat the soil with sodium selenate (in solution or capsules) or Endrin, and keep these plants away from the others until they show clean new center growth, a matter of 2 to 4 weeks.

Mealy bugs look like flecks of cotton. When you find only a few on a plant, touch them with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. For heavy attacks, use a malathion spray. Get rid of caterpillars and grasshoppers by spraying with malathion or a similar product. You can clean up brown scale with Dithion or soap and water. The scales are slow-moving bugs and when young are light yellow. While they usually attack only smooth leaves, they will invade an overcrowded batch of hairy-leaved plants, such as episcias. When this happens, use the hand spray, making certain that tops and bottoms and all parts of the rough-textured leaf surfaces are reached.

Fungus attacks show up in blackened buds and rotting stems and leaves. Many plants respond well when the affected parts are cut away and powdered Fermate is applied, or when soil and plants are moistened with Carco-X or some other excellent fungicide. In humid seasons, slugs may be prevalent, hiding in dead and decaying material. The seeds fall out of any pod they nip, and this means loss in time and money. Sawdust containing metal-dehyde, sold as Snarol, can be applied to the soil to poison the slugs. Nematodes betray their presence in various ways. Plants may have a stunted or wilted look, or there may be blisters on petioles and nodules on the roots. Until recently plants infested with root nematodes had to be disposed of, but V-13 and other soil sterilants and fumigants have proved effective against these pests. Since these products are poisonous, take care to use exactly as directed.

Spring Housecleaning

Every spring I houseclean the greenhouse, first moving all the plants outside to the shade of my lath house. I apply V-13 to the pea rock in the benches and on the soil under them, wash away algae with a Carco-X solution, and clean the windows. Clearlite cleaner, 1/2 pound to 1 gallon of water, helps remove old shading compound and dirt and leaves the glass sparkling. If your greenhouse is not attached to your house, you may want to fumigate it with a “smoke bomb” like Fulex. Use great caution. While the greenhouse is empty, check and replace cracked or loosened putty and glass. Repair defective woodwork, benches, and walks. If yours is a heated greenhouse, have the plumbing and heating checked in summer; don’t wait for a winter breakdown. After this thorough going over, plants are put back, and throughout the year, I watch closely for signs of trouble and deal with it promptly.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees

In the small greenhouse the loss of a few plants means a decrease in profit. Proper ventilating, heating, watering, and fertilizing for the type of plants you grow are your best safeguards against trouble. Sterilized soil is important, too. Plants growing in a cold or cool house are less susceptible to pest and disease than those in a warm house. Just remember the old saying about an ounce of prevention. Keep your greenhouse and the surrounding area free of weeds; they often harbor insects. The best way to fight trouble is to avoid it.

Products to Help You

Hundreds of insecticides and fungicides are on the market. Compare labels carefully. Then if you still are in doubt as to which product is best for eradicating an insect or a disease, consult your county agricultural extension agent. If there’s anything he doesn’t know, he can consult the state university. My own greenhouse medicine chest (which seems amply stocked for any emergency) contains the following items:

1. Sodium selenate in powder and capsule form for use against cyclamen mites. (This chemical is poisonous and some

growers prefer a slower-acting though less poisonous insecticide, like Endrin.)

2. V-13 Nemacide, a preventative and annihilating soil treatment for nematodes.

3. Malathion, a general all-round insecticide. (Lindane, is good for controlling insects invading the green parts of a plant; chlordane and DDT for eradicating soil-borne insects.)

4. Aramite (or Ovotran) for red spider.

5. Dithion for the brown scale on citrus plants, ivy, philodendron, and amaryllids. If you find a few scales on a plant or two, wash leaves in a strong soap-and-water solution. If you find scales on a number of plants, spray with Dithion or malathion.

6. Snarol for destroying slugs (or use Chlordane).

7. Fermate is my choice for a fungicide.

8. Carco-X, a combination fungicide and insecticide, I find especially good for treating soil for bulbous plants.

9. Sulphur as spray or dust is useful in controlling fungi or mildew.

Most insecticides are poisonous. Handle them with care. Use rubber gloves when spraying the greenhouse. After you use the sprayer, rinse it out. Store insecticide containers out of reach of pets and children.

Keywords: Greenhouse Gardening, Landscaping, Plants, Pool, Gardener, Landscape, Trees